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Furniture Stains

 

Furniture stains in carpet, most often happen from mahogany, cherry wood and antique furniture. Some, like antique, can stain, simply, by placing it on a wet area, of a freshly cleaned, for a few seconds. Sticky tabs are great to help prevent this. They are clear plastic squares, with sticky on one side, that will hold itself to the bottom of the furniture leg.

We have seen these staining woods leave furniture stains, in high humidity Houston, even though the carpet was never wet! (No dogs, cats or leaks)

 

There are Usually 3 Parts to a Furniture Stain  

 

a. Rust from metal tabs
b. Staining from the wood itself
c. Finishing stain

 

Rust is easy. Rust Remover, usually, will do it.                                                                                                                    Here’s where it gets more difficult. Color that came from the wood is organic. Organic stains are sometimes removed with an oxidizer. (Adds oxygen)

Color from the furniture stain, that was applied, is likely to be synthetic. Synthetic stains can, sometimes, be removed with reducers or sometimes called strippers. (Removes oxygen)   
 

Here's What You Can Try

 

1. Red Dye Remover (a reducer) – with steam iron heat and a wet towel – medium heat for 20 30 seconds at a time. – a steamer also does a good job.

This often works on fresh stains since they are more likely to be the applied stain. (color) A fresh stain, sometimes, hasn’t had time for the stain to bond, completely, to the fiber.  

2. Urine Stain Remover (an oxidizer) – If the Red Dye Remover product didn’t get it , RINSE the area thoroughly (one removes oxygen and the other adds it, they will neutralize each other if not rinsed completely) with the oxidizing product.

3. Protein Spotter - added before steaming, can sometimes increase the activity. (Careful of bleaching!)

Sometimes, a Urine Stain Remover (peroxide) product, will work cold, on furniture stains, given the time. Blot or wipe gently and add product as needed.  

 

When attempting to remove color, warn the customer, about the possibility of bleaching the original color.

 

If your efforts to remove the stains didn’t work:

The next step is a bonded insert. You might consider the new micro-wave type seaming iron Kool Glide that can make an “almost good” repair guy, pretty darn good.

 

INCLUDE THE POSSIBILITY OF A BONDED INSERT WITH YOUR ESTIMATE FOR SPOT REMOVAL.

“We have a spotting procedure that may improve this, but if that doesn’t work we can do a bonded insert AND THAT WILL COST $___.” This way you have prepared the customer that there may be 2 costs involved BEFORE STARTING.

 

Finally, a big mistake I see cleaners making is that they sell 100% removal. Anything less than 100% is considered failure. Sell improvement of the spot if you suspect that’s all you can do and it may make the customer happy.. Improvement can be considered success, if qualified properly. On some carpets, such as plush, partial removal of the stain can be a better look than a bonded insert.

 

            MAKE MONEY!

 

            Dennis Klager

         IICRC Instructor

 



 

  
Copyright 2012 by Dennis Klager